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Vaccines and Tests for cats

| Labels: catcare

If you have other pets in the home, it’s important to get your new kitten to the vet before bringing it home. Even the youngest of kittens can carry diseases and parasites that will afflict the other pets in your home. Save yourself the headache by doing a little prevention at the veterinarian’s office

. A new kitten’s health schedule should be the following:

3 weeks: fecal exam
6 weeks: fecal exam
9-10 weeks: FHV/FCV/FPV vaccine, ELISA test for FeLV, FeLV vaccine, fecal exam
12-14 weeks: FHV/FCV/FPV vaccine, FeLV vaccination, Rabies vaccine, fecal exam

If you decide to bring your new kitten home before these shots and exams are complete, keep your kitten in quarantine until it has received all the necessary exams and vaccines.

When your kitten is finally ready to be brought home, be sure to have planned enough in advance to have a bowl full of food and water ready, as well as a sleeping box and litter box in the cat’s new living space. The kitty will quickly learn to call this space their own and will need to learn that the litter box is the appropriate place to “go.”

To introduce a new kitten to existing cats in the home, place the new kitten in a room by itself for a few days with a slight crack in the doorway so that the other cats can introduced to the new kitten’s curious nose that will appear in the doorway. Rub down your cat with a towel and place the towel in the existing cat’s sleeping space so that the cat will become accustomed to the kittens scent – do the same for the kitten, so that the kitten sleeps with a towel that carries the scent of the existing cat. After three days, the new kitten can now be “introduced” to the existing cats in the home.

Spaying and Neutering

Males: The earlier the better. Male kittens can be neutered as soon as they are at least two pounds in weight and have two descended testis. Delaying neutering increases the likelihood of testicular and prostate cancer, and can result in a pet population explosion in your very own neighborhood.

Females: Spay before the cats’s first heat cycle – delaying spaying beyond the first heat cycle increases the likelihood of breast and uterine cancer.

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Cat Vaccines

| Labels: catcare

Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis and Calicivirus (FVRCP) - viral diseases of the eyes, nose and throat (upper respiratory infection) plus Panleukopenia a viral disease of the blood and intestines (feline distemper or infectious enteritis).

Feline Leukemia (FeLV) - a viral disease that impairs immunity. Usually fatal.

Rabies - a viral disease fatal to humans and other animals. Vaccination is necessary for all cats.

Kitten Vaccinations

8 weeks to 1 year

8 weeks - First vaccination shot (FVRCP).

12 weeks

Feline Leukemia shot (FeLV) (only if pretest is negative). A second (FeLV) shot given 2 to 3 weeks later. Second vaccination shot (FVRCP).

4 months

Rabies and third vaccination shot (FVRCP).

Adult Cats

FVRCP - Yearly. Cats 13 weeks or older that have not been vaccinated should have an initial vaccine then a booster in 2 to 4 weeks.

FeLV - Yearly. Cats not previously vaccinated need the two injection series (only if pretest is negative).

Rabies - Yearly (depending on vaccine)

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Cat Grooming

| Labels: catcare

Brushing

Grooming your cat can be a rewarding and fulfilling experience for you and your cat. Additionally, regular grooming and handling will better adapt the cat if the need arises for it to see a veterinarian. Although cats do an excellent job of keeping themselves clean, additional grooming can improve the health of the cat’s skin, prevent stomach hairballs and remove dangerous parasites and sticker weeds.

To groom your cat, choose a time when the cat is ready to rest and not in a playful mood. Begin by cuddling the cat in your lap and petting it gently. Once your cat is subdued, use a soft cat hair brush to stroke the cat from head to tail following the direction of the cat’s fur. As you brush, use firm pressure to remove excess hair and other items hiding next to the cat’s fur. Pay particular attention to the ears and between the toes, as these are common places where ticks, mites, thorns and sticker weeds may hide. These areas are generally tender and should be handled carefully. Keep a pair of tweezers close to remove any fur and skin irritations.

Brush the legs and tail, gently stroking out mats and other foreign entities. If you should encounter wounds, use ointments and antibiotics as directed by the cat’s veterinarian.

Bathing

Before you attempt to bathe your cat, be sure to take time to cut its nails. Cat nails grow quickly and can become very sharp. To clip the cat’s nails, use a set of cat specific clippers or pet nail clippers – using normal human nail clippers is not recommended. Hold the cat’s paw with your off hand and the clippers in your strong hand. Before you begin clipping, locate the vein that runs through your cat’s paws and cut just above the vein. Cutting too closely too the vein may cause the nails to bleed and cause the cat unnecessary discomfort. Clip off the end of each nail on both the front and back paws.

Once the cat’s nails are cut, you are ready to get your cat near the bathing water. Cats generally do not like water and become especially agitated with the sloshing and splashing sound of water. Begin bathing your cat away from the tub or wash basin by using a warm wash rag and some baby shampoo to wash the cat’s head, eyes and ears. If you choose to wash your cat with an anti-flea shampoo, be sure to treat your cat’s eyes with mineral oil prior to applying the harsh shampoo – this will protect the cat’s eyes from the stinging irritation that will occur if the medicated shampoo gets in the cat’s eyes. Use a cotton swab to wash your cat’s ears and be sure look for any black discharge that signals the presence of mites. If you do find that your cats ears do have a black discharge, be sure to take your cat into the veterinarian.

Once the head is clean, you can now place the cat into the tub or wash basin – be sure to use water that is right around room temperature or slightly warmer. If your cat struggles with being placed in the tub, and to further prevent soap from getting into your cat’s eyes, you can place the hind end of the cat in the tub and let the forepaws hang out over the edge of the tub. Soak your cat using a cup or hose and then apply a cat specific or pet shampoo. Massage the shampoo into your cat and then rinse the cat thoroughly using the cup or hose.

To dry the cat by removing the cat from the tub or wash basin and placing it on the floor on a towel. Gently cover the cat with a towel and blot the cat dry – do not rub the cat as this will cause the fur to tangle and mat. Use a blow dryer, on medium heat, to gently blow dry the cat’s fur. Be sure to keep the blow dryer in constant motion, about 12 inches away from the fur - never blow the cat directly in the eyes and ears. As you blow dry your cat, use a broad toothed comb to gently move the fur away from the cat’s skin. Be sure to keep your cat away from cold weather for the next 24 hours as the cat’s fur continues to dry.

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General Care for cats

| Labels: catcare

Cats, as independent as they may seem, do require care and attention. Be sure to pay attention to these important details:

Cats should visit the veterinarian annually and kept up-to-date on the necessary shots and vaccinations
Cats should be given a heartworm pill once a year
Dry Cat food is recommended for the bulk of the cat’s diet and should be supplemented with a good cat vitamin
Cats should be bathed regularly with a cat shampoo – use baby shampoo if you need to wash the cat’s head. In addition to bathing, cats should be brushed one or two times per week.
Cats should have their teeth brushed at least twice a week.
Use only low calorie treats – dry treats will also help clean the cat’s teeth
Cats should be checked regularly for fleas and ticks during the Spring, Summer and Fall months

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Emergency...

| Labels: catcare, dogscare

Accidents happen everywhere. Even animals can get injured. Injured pets will react to pain by expressing fear and panic, and sometimes react aggressively. It is usually common for them to be uncooperative during treatment, even going so far as to try and bite or scratch. When dealing with a frightened and wounded pet, it’s important to secure the pet so that it calms down and doesn’t make its wound worst. If necessary, the pet must be muzzle or use a tape or cloth to tie the pet’s mouth, to avoid getting bitten.

Treating injuries is done through basic first aid. A simple pet first-aid kit should be available at homes. It should consist of scissors, tape, bandages and basic medications such as milk of magnesia, antibiotics, mineral oil and a common anti-diarrheal formula – milk of bismuth.

Poisoning

It is not uncommon for pets to get into baits (such as rat poison) or chemicals that are harmful to their system. A pet exposed to a poison may react in various ways, including, but not limited to, paralysis. You should bring your pet to clinic while trying to purge the pet’s system off poisons. You will need to induce vomiting by feeding your pet with small amounts of hydrogen peroxide. The amount of hydrogen peroxide to be fed, however, varies with the size of your pet.

Puncture wounds
From time to time, pets may encounter barbs, thorns or fish hooks while going to the park for walks. If your pet gets a deep puncture wound, seek out a veterinarians help before attempting to remove the item. This is because veterinarians can provide your pet with pain killers and anesthesia to relax your pet before removing the thorn. However, if the hook or barb is only slightly embedded in the skin, be sure to cut off the sharp barb before attempting to slide it out. To remove a thorn, use a needle and tweezers. With any puncture wound, it is important to use a good antibiotic and to cover the wound with a bandage until it’s healed.

Broken bones
Bone fractures in pets will require the help of a veterinarian. Before moving your pet, be sure to secure the broken area by wrapping the injured area with a towel or blanket. Use rope or some type of cloth to tie the wrap to hold it in place. In addition to wrapping the wound, cover your pet with blankets to keep it warm because such injuries generally induce shock.

Heat Stroke
Pets too, can experience heat stroke. It will cause disorientation and eventually lose consciousness. To treat heat stroke, immediately begin cooling your pet by running a hose over your pet – continue dousing it for several minutes. If after several minutes your pet does not revive, take it to a veterinarian as soon as possible. However, prevention is better than cure. You should not leave your pet out in the sun. You should provide your pet with a proper shelter and away from the hot sun.

Bleeding
When a pet is injured and begins bleeding, the wound should be immediately covered with gauze or cloth. Then, hold the cloth over the wound with moderate pressure for at least five minutes. Do not pull the gauze or cloth back to peek and see if the bleeding has stopped. After five minutes, if the bleeding hasn’t stopped, take the dog to the clinic.

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